My digital camera builds JPEG pictures that hover around 2 to 4MB each (3872 x 2592 pixels) . If I were to email these to friends, there would be revolts. For example, after a recent backpacking trip, I had 58 photographs, totaling 194MB and when opened in an email, you only see the upper-left corner and a really-wide scrollbar.
With digital photographs, the more pixels, the better. But when it comes to sharing with friends, resize the images or loose them as friends. You could use a photo-editor, opening each image, resizing, then doing a save-as. This is tedious and could take hours.
Or you could use a nifty program called "Fotosizer" and have it "batch" resize all of the images. You can download, install, and successfully use this program in about 2 minutes. Here are the recommended steps:
Download the program from here (Shift-click for a new window)
This is a straight-forward install and the program is free.
They ask for a $10.00 paypal donation -- why not drop them a few bucks?
When the program opens, click the "Add Image" icon along the the bottom edge of the screen.
- A Windows Explorer window opens.
- Locate your photos; click-and-drag the images from Explorer to the gray box.
- Optionally, click "Add Folder".
Fotosizer accepts JPG, TIF, BMP, PNG, GIF, and TGA (it does not accept RAW image formats, such as Pentax's PEF).
In the Settings area (illustrated), make these changes:
1. Choose a preset size.
When emailing, I typically choose (600 x 480) or (800 x 600).
A variety of other standard sizes are available, including (320 x 200) up through (2048 x 1536) with every size between. You can also choose ipod, widescreen, PS2, as well as custom sizes and by percentages.
2. Always click "Reverse Width and Height by Orientation"
This keeps your landscape and portrait shots at the same relative sizes.
In the Destination Settings:
3. Set the Destination folder to any new, empty data-folder.
For example, I usually use "C:\Data\Temp" -- this way the new, smaller photos are not mixed in with the originals.
Optionally: Build a new folder:
- Click the Yellow-folder icon,
- "Make New Folder"
4. Recommend setting a ' filename mask.'
I use this literal string: "%F_Small" (no quotes)
where: "%F" is a variable representing the original filename. With this, you will be able to tell the original, full-sized image from the smaller image by just glancing at the name and should they be accidentally intermixed with the original photos, it will be obvious. Other variables are available in the help screen.
For example, "IMGP1075_Small.jpg"
5. Click Start.
My 58 files took about 20 seconds to resize.
Total New Size: 3.2MB (originally 194MB)
FileSize: 50K average (originally 2 - 4MB each)
The new files will look fine in a preview window and the file sizes will be manageable. Attaching these files to an email or to a blog will be effortless. Here is a 60K example:
When Not to Use Fotosizer:
Do not use Fotosized images if you need enlargements / printing or for photographic critique or other technical work. The translation from 4MB to 60K is not free and quality is lost -- but for casual viewing, few will notice.
Although fotosizer admirably compresses photographs, do not let the compressed photos become your only copy; preserve the original files in your permanent archives. Just to be safe, I do not allow Fotosizer to write in the original source directory.
I have two enhancements that I'd like to see with the program: I wished it could handle DSLR Raw Formats (PEF and others) and I wished one of the output options was to a ZIP file -- where all of the photographs could be stored in a single file; this would make emailing a batch of photos a cinch.
Desktop Wallpaper Cropping
Pentax and Fotosizer (original review)
Keywords: photosizer foto sizer photo sizer